Travel Guide | Morocco
One of the most unique and rad places we’ve travelled to so far! Ryan and I both felt like this was not a relaxing trip, but a total adventure. We saw incredible diverse landscapes, ate some of the best food I’ve had, appreciated new forms of art, even got robbed in the Marrakech Medina (be careful and try to walk in groups & around other people). But, our favorite thing was renting a car and driving 20 hours around the country - out to the Sahara desert in Merzouga then up to Fez. Seeing the little African villages, the poppy fields, the Atlas mountains. We even drove through a Swiss mountain town with snow capped mountains! It was insane. Morocco can be a little uncomfortable and new, with some dangerous areas, but we are so grateful for our time spent here and would love to return someday! I will be talking about the riads we stayed at forever - they are the most beautifully designed, with ornate details and bright colors. The design and architecture in this country is something else and worth traveling to see!
Itinerary
Seattle —> London (2 days) —> Marrakech (3 days) drove —> Togda gorge (1 day) drove —> Merzouga (2 days) drove —> Fez (3 days) flew —> Oslo, Norway
Notes: Marrakech is vibrant and exciting, with so much art and food, but it is also a wild city - the medina is an actual maze. It can get sketchy in areas and hard to navigate. I suggest only spending a couple days here, then moving on. Fes is another great city to go to because it is much larger, more educated as there is a university there, and has a lot of history and culture. There are lots of activities in the surrounding areas near Fes. A couple other cities we didn’t make it to, but I suggest you add to your itinerary are Chefchaouen (the blue city, up north, closer to Fes) and Essaouira (beach town). I’ve heard fantastic things about both places and would be the perfect additions.
We rented a car in Marrakech and drove from there to Merzouga to camp, then up to Fes and returned the car. This worked out really well for us and was cost effective, but you can also go through a tour company that will drive you around the country. Bus is another cheap option, but sounds miserable to me. It can be long hours in a car, but it was such a cool experience to see the small villages and unique landscapes. I will warn you to carry cash with you. I got pulled over by a cop because I missed the small stop sign on the road (as opposed to US stop signs that are high up, at my eye level!). I had to just pay the cop some cash right then and there to get out of it.
Morocco Check-list
Eat tagine on a rooftop
2. Try a pastilla
3. Drive through the Atlas Mountains
4. Ride a camel
5. See the Sahara Desert
6. Drink peppermint tea
7. Navigate the Marrakech Medina
8. Explore Chefchouen
9. Shop the souks for souvenirs
10. Sunbathe at the beaches in Essaouira
Stay:
There are many options for accomodation. I suggest you take the opportunity to stay in a Riad, a traditional Moroccan guesthouse. They are typically situated in the old part of town and are centered around a courtyard or pool.
Marrakech
Riad Jardin Secret - Small boutique hotel. The iconic pink rooftop!! Everything corner of this place is a dream. The best breakfast I’ve ever tasted, and the prettiest film photos on the walls. Very artsy. Lots of spots to lounge. The owners are the sweetest, they support artisans and host artist-in-residency stays. Recommend for couples. I would go back here in a heartbeat!
Riad UP - very small boutique hotel, only holds 2-3 couples. Do not recommend for families. Very affordable, but absolutely stunning. Small, cozy rooms. The host is an interior designer and she worked her magic with this place. It’s charming, has a small pool on the ground floor, and pretty rooftop. We stayed here for a couple nights and were blown away by the meals cooked for us!
Riad Yasmine - Small boutique hotel. Open, bright white spaces, filled with tropical plants. Great spot if you want to lounge by the pool & relax . Close to the Medina (city center). Chic & luxurious!
Riad BE Marrakech - Small boutique hotel. Known for their white & turquoise tiles covering the walls and floors, square pool, & ornate details. This place is truly STUNNING. They also have a hammam and provide gourmet cooked meals. So luxurious, staying here is the ultimate experience.
El Fenn - Large boutique hotel with a spa, 2 courtyard pools & a roof terrace with a plunge pool. Rich, bold colors and local art in the design. Every room is unique and beautifully ornate. Perfect if you want more of a resort feel with a full restaurant and lots of space to explore. Great for families.
Berber Lodge - Quiet acommodation outside of the city. Simple, but elegant berber style interiors. Set amongst beautiful olive groves and farmland. Healthy meals, huge outdoor pool, and lots of trees for picnics and relaxing. Such a perfect escape! Great for families.
Scarabeo Camp - luxury desert camp. If you don’t have time or want to go all the way to the Sahara, you can get to this camp in an hour from Marrakech. Such a cool experience that I highly recommend! There are lots of activiites to do through the camp, like offroading, riding camels and hot air balloon rides.
Sahara Desert Luxury Desert Camps
One of the highlights of Morocco! We loved waking up in the middle of the desert, the nightly entertainment, and had fun meeting other travelers. A couple good companies to look at for this:
KamKam Dunes - in the Erg Chebbi Dunes just outside Merzouga, we went with this option and were really impressed! You HAVE to do the sunrise camel ride and try the sand boarding.
Desert Luxury Camp - another good option in the Erg Chebbi Dunes I’ve heard good things about. The ultimate glamping experience in pretty white tents.
Fes
Riad Anata - charming boutique riad, modern and colorful design. Cute, tropical rooftop with a small tub, and lounge areas. Located in the medina.
Riad Fes - Relais & Chateaux - I love this riad! It’s the perfect mix traditional Moroccan and baroque styles. Located in the medina. Full spa and restaurant, a variety of patios and gardens, & a stunning outdoor pool, this place is the ideal escape from the medina.
Riad Rcif Alif Suite & Spa - A very traditional, larger riad, great for couples or families. Excellent location in the medina. I don’t know if I’ve seen a more intricately decorated accomodation that this Riad - everything is covered in tiles, gold and carved designs. Large indoor swimming pool, restaurant, hamam, and fantastic terrace. The building is a former palace, built is 1372 (!!), and makes for a unique and cultural stay.
Hotel Sahrai - The opposite of Riad Rcif, this hotel is contemporary - upscale. Located out of the medina, it is a quieter stay with lots of space to relax. Lots of amenities - resort style. Huge outdoor pool, spa, restaurant.
Eat:
Moroccan food is some of my FAVORITE food. It’s all SO good - pastilla (savory pie), tagine (slow cooked meat and potatoes), cous cous, spit-roasted lamb, beghrir (pancakes), msemen (seminola flatbread), olives & beans. I could go on and on. Here are some restaurants we loved and some we had on our list, but didn’t make it to:
Marrakech
Le Jardin Restaurant - a yummy restaurant set in the palace gardens
NOMAD - prettiest rooftop restaurant with amazing views and really good food!
Cafe Chez Zaza - another good colorful rooftop restaurant with excellent Moroccan food
Bacha Coffee - very popular cafe! Fancy, gold accented architecture, sit down experience. Every detail is perfect! From coffee and tea to cakes, tarts and sandwiches.
Safran by Koya - upscale dinner restaurant with modern Moroccan and European dishes, and evening entertainment.
Mandala Society - fun, brightly colored and healthy brunch dishes. Good options for vegans and vegetarians.
Cafe Clock - Artsy, casual Moroccan restaurant with patio seating. I haven’t tried it, but many people like the camel burger…
Fes
The Ruined Garden - prettiest nature setting for a meal!
Chez Rachid (Blue Gate) - excellent traditional Moroccan restaurant. Very casual.
Cafe Clock - Artsy, casual Moroccan restaurant with patio seating. I haven’t tried it, but many people like the camel burger…
Nacho Mama Burrito House - you’ll see the hot pink facade and know you’ve arrived. Simple, but high quality burritos, tacos and bowls. Healthy options.
*Eat at your Riad! Some of the best food we had was homemade by the owners of our riads. They really make you feel like welcomed guests in their home with the great hospitality.
See & Do:
Marrakech
Jardin Majorelle & Yves Saint Laurant Museum - Incredible garden by artist Jacques Majorelle with hundreds of exotic plants and multiple fountains. I loved spending the afternoon here! Next to the garden is the very cool, cubed building of the Yves Saint Laurant Museum. A popular for fashion enthusiasts. *Must purchase separate tickets for the garden and the museum.
Bahia Palace - Explore the 160 rooms and 8 acres of gardens! The intricate carvings and details of Moroccan architecture is one of the coolest parts of this country. It is an impressive form of art. $7 entrance fee
Ibn Youssef School - 18th century college building with beautiful courtyards, tiles and carved wood. Really enjoyed walking around this masterpiece!
Shop the Souks - all day markets in the medina with food stands and handcrafted souvenirs. I loved shopping for rugs, metal lanterns, pottery and woven bags. I rarely buy souvenirs when traveling, but I came home with a whole extra suitcase of stuff from Morocco! Souk Semmarine and Souk Cherifia are popular markets I recommend checking out. Note: you can barter, just be careful of the vendors trying to take advantage of you.
Short trip to Essaouira - either do a day trip or stay a couple days in the beach town. Villa Maroc is a great riad to stay at in Essaouira. Go surfing, sunbathe and explore the city. Most people say this is a city you HAVE to go to in Morocco, it’s that good.
Fes
See the Blue Gate - famous large arch covered in mosaic tiles, that is the portal to the old medina. The old medina, or Fes el-Bali, is the world’s largest medieval city and car-free zone. Kinda cool!
Tour the tanneries in the Medina - The tanneries are a unique part of Fes culture. You’ll see hundreds of earthen pits with various colored dye, used to color the leather. It is fascinating and worth seeing. Just be ready for some strong smells, a scarf to wrap around your nose helps. You can go on your own or book a tour guide who will take you here.
Al Attarine Madrasa - a small, ornate building, built in the 14th century, originally used as a place for religious learning. It is located at the entrance to the Al Attarine spice & perfume market. The exquisite details and craftsmanship put into this architecture makes it worth checking out.
Bou Inania Medersa - another stunning traditional madrasa you have to see!
Shop the souks - like the souks in Marrakech, this can be a maze. We booked a tour guide which was helpful. She took us to the popular markets and shops. I even bought a flat woven berber rug. My advice is to never take the first price you get, always haggle when appropriate. I walked away with a rug for 75% less than what the shop owner first asked for.
Take a day trip to Chefchaouen - We didn’t make it to Chefchaouen and I’m SO upset about it! I plan on going one day. I only heard good things about it from everyone we met in Morocco. Drive up into the mountains for a day or a couple days to explore the blue city (the buildings are painted bright Moroccan blue)! See all the crafts and artistry, walk around the town and take pictures - every corner is SO picturesque. Chefchaouen is about 3+ hours from Fes each way. You can rent a car and drive, take a bus, or sign up for a tour.
Stops on the journey to the Sahara
Ait-Banhaddou - one of the coolest stops on the journey between Marrakech and the Sahara Desert. This village was historically a stopping point for traders on their journey through the desert. A UNESCO World Heritage Site. We really enjoyed walking around the historic ksar (fortified village) for a couple hours then continuing on our drive.
Todra Gorge - beautiful gorge in the Atlas mountains along the river that is a lovely place to stretch your legs.
Dades Xaluca Hotel - This large hotel, situated up on a hill overlooking the town, is a unique experience, for sure. We stopped here for a night in the middle of our journey from Marrakech to the Sahara Desert. They have a huge rooftop pool, a full restaurant with a buffet, and it is filled with lots of history and culture. It was absolutely packed with people from motorcyclists traveling the country, to tourists like us from all over the globe - it was a party and we loved it!