Travel Guide | Portugal
For our 10th wedding anniversary, we took a trip to Portugal. We brought our 9 month old daughter, and traveled up and down the country for 2 weeks! We loved everything about Portugal - it is a place I will definitely return to! Having a baby with us meant things were a little more challenging, but because the people are so hospitable and friendly, our trip was much easier than I imagined. Romy was a great traveler, and loved all the attention she got. The Portuguese people were so kind and really prioritize families. At restaurants, the staff gave Romy toys and cookies. They talked to her and entertained her. At the airport, there were separate, much faster lines and security areas for families. The hotels had special accommodations for kids. I was so impressed. This country has something for everyone - it is becoming wildly popular among tourists, and for good reason!
We used the trains to get from city to city. The train system was excellent, and a cheap way to travel around Portugal. We did have one issue when our train from Lisbon to Faro was running late and they announced it on the overhead speaker in Portuguese. Because we couldn’t understand the language very well, and couldn’t find someone who spoke decent english, we ended up getting on the wrong train going the opposite direction. We had to jump off the train at the first stop, grab a taxi, and race back to the train station we started at. We made our train to Faro, just BARELY, thanks to the taxi driver who ran two red lights! The stress!!
I highly recommend having a car while in the Algarve. We rented a car in Faro, so we could get around with ease. We used Drive4Miles, and were very impressed. They meet you right at the train station in Faro, versus having to travel to the airport in Faro. The price was fair and we had no issues with the car.
Our Itinerary
Seattle —> London | Spent 3 days in London | Flight —> Porto, Portugal | Spent 3 days in Porto | Train —-> Lisbon | Spent 4 days in Lisbon | Train —> Faro | Spent 2 days in Loule & 2 days in Lagos | Train —> Lisbon —> Flight to Seattle
Portugal Check-list:
Eat as many pasteis de nata as you can
Try a queijada in Sintra
Eat salted cod
Visit Pena Palace
Eat a Francesinha sandwich in Porto
Take a river cruise in Porto
Ride a tram in Lisbon
Bring home pottery made in Portugal
Experience the beaches in the Algarve
Where to Stay:
We chose to explore three different regions of Portugal & I would definitely recommend this. All three places were unique and we loved them all equally. Porto is small and charming, Lisbon is historic and lively, and the Algarve is like a European Southern California (in other words, a step up!).
Porto:
Maison Albar Hotels Le Monumental Palace - Portugal is very affordable, so staying in a 5 star hotel is reasonable. This hotel is the perfect stay in Porto! The hospitality in Portugal is the best of any country I’ve traveled to, and this hotel is no exception! They even came to our room to pick up and wash our baby bottles multiple times a day. The rooms are so luxurious, and the pool was a highlight for all of us, especially Romy! Great location, best sights are within walking distance.
The Yeatman - A luxurious hotel overlooking the city. Perfect for couples, spa days. Close to the wineries with a view of the river.
Lisbon:
Memmo Principe Real - A great neighborhood to stay in, close to so much good shopping and food. Polished, upscale hotel. Be sure to eat at Leonetta across the street if you stay here (& even if you don’t stay here).
Memmo Alfama - I love the Alfama neighborhood for the music, charm & the cafes! This hotel is a little more low-key than Principe Real, but still luxurious and comfortable.
Santiago de Alfama - Boutique hotel with stunning views, right in the middle of one of the best neighborhoods. 15th century building that is absolutely stunning! Watch sunset at Miradouro de Santa Luzia, just a minute walk from here!
The Algarve:
Casa Brava Eco B&B (Loule) - If you are looking for a secluded stay (long term or short term) away from the tourists, this is the place!! It is my favorite airbnb experience to date. The couple that owns this house is so kind, we loved our conversations with them. They care about the details - the breakfast every morning is something to look forward to, freshly prepared & better than any hotel. The property is idyllic, with lots of places to relax in the beautiful trees and plants. If I worked remotely, I would live here for months. We loved staying here for a couple days after being in cities most of the trip. They had all the amenities I could ever need for Romy, and the property was perfect for her to run around. Great for single travelers who want seclusion, couples or small families with one or two kids.
Casa Mae (Lagos) - I cannot say enough good things about this hotel. Bright white, tropical plants, coastal modern interiors, boutique rooms. It’s incredible! The restaurant is SO good - we ate there almost everyday. They get all their food fresh from a garden on their property. They even had fresh from the garden, pureed baby food on the menu - I died! Great location, walkable to town and beaches. Outdoor pool, large Inside the hotel, they have a little boutique shop with the best souvenirs!
Food
Porto:
Do Norte Cafe by Hungry Biker - Highly recommend this spot!! Hidden, cozy and mostly locals - such a good vibe. The food is the BEST. Heavy & filling Portuguese brunch - I highly recommend the “Hearty Spicy” toast! Note: “Salty Waffles” aren’t actually salty haha - they are savory waffle sandwiches. :)
MUU Steakhouse - Favorite dinner of the trip! If you want to eat the best steak & have the best dining experience of your life, you have to go to MUU. Ryan & I will be talking about this place for years to come. Make a reservation because they only have a few tables. The service is the best I’ve ever experienced - if Romy dropped her pacifier on the floor, within seconds someone was there picking it up, cleaning it, and rushing it back. They even entertained her, so I could relax more. It was really reasonably priced for the yummiest steak I’ve ever had. Everything I ate was mouthwatering!
Majestic Cafe - A bit overpriced for lunch, but worth a stop to see the Bella Epoque - era, ornate interiors. We got hot chocolate, croissants and pasteis de natas & they were the best tasting pastries we had the whole trip! Don’t forget to add the cinnamon on top of the pasteis de nata.
Gazela - Quick lunch spot for classic Portuguese sandwiches. Made even more popular after Anthony Bourdain came here. If you want to try something originally from Porto, get the Francesinha sandwich - a heavy meat sandwich topped with melted cheese, an egg and covered with a hot tomato sauce. A Portuguese take on the Croque-monsieur.
Lisbon:
Dear Breakfast (brunch) - So good! There are a couple locations in Lisbon. We went to the one in Alfama & loved it!! I was in love with the interiors - old concrete arches, plants, tiles. Also good for some quick pastries to go.
Hello, Kristof (brunch) - I hope you like brunch because that makes up half of my food suggestions in Lisbon! Cutest little coffee shop & cafe - perfect for hanging out a bit longer. They really nail the brunch foods - bowls, toasts, fresh fruits.
Heim Cafe (brunch) - Small cafe, with incredible food options!! Healthy, fresh, flavorful. Just look at the menu & you’ll be convinced. BRUNCH for sure, but also try dinner!
LUDO’s (brunch) - Colorful brunch foods, healthy veggie bowls and salads. 4.9 stars, sooo why wouldn’t you go?! Lisbon seriously is filled with all the restaurants of my dreams!
Miolo (brunch) - shocker, another brunch place. But, this place is my DREAM. The food looks like art, and the restaurant interior is so charming, covered in florals. Tack this onto your visit to the Tower of Belem.
Break Se (brunch) - I was going to stop listing brunch places, but I HAD to include this one. Bali style, surf cafe with DELICIOUS food!! Go here for breakfast or lunch, or BOTH. It’s that good.
Leonetta (dinner) - One of my favorite dinners in Lisbon! An intimate & charming restaurant, the FRESHEST PASTA with unique flavors. We got two pasta dishes and liked them so much, we ordered a third to share because we wanted to try more!
Li28oa (dinner) - Located along the Tram 28 route, hence the name. This place is highly rated for dinner. Quality Portuguese food - steak, frites, seafood, rice dishes.
O Velho Eurico - Our airbnb host told us about this place. Says it’s the best for classic Portuguese dishes. Looks SO good, but sadly we didn’t get to try it because they don’t open until 8pm & with a baby, that wasn’t going to work haha. But, I suggest you try it if you want to eat well & for a good price!
Fares (lunch/dinner) - SO bummed I didn’t make it here, but I definitely suggest you go. I heard about this place from multiple locals. Modern, middle eastern food for lunch or dinner.
Manteigaria (snack) - A chain bakery all over Portugal with really good Pasteis de Nata !
The Algarve:
Bica Velha (Loule) - Our B&B host says this is the best restaurant in town/the area & I believe it! So cozy inside, and the food looks so good. It was packed when we were here, so we didn’t make it in, but it’s on my list when we go back!
Pizzaria Luzzo (Loule) - Fantastic, wood fired pizza in a small town.
Coffee & Waves (Lagos) - I’ll find a smoothie/acai bowl place anywhere I go. This place is a little surf shop with healthy food options. Great for breakfast or a snack after the beach.
Black & White Coffee Shop (Lagos) - We came here everyday to take a break, and get a drink and snack. Try the specialty “Eton Mess” pancakes, breakfast burrito and Roast Veg Bowl! Love finding healthy options while traveling.
Croissanteria 29 (Lagos) - Just saying, you HAVE to try the croissants in Portugal. Best I’ve ever had, so buttery and soft, more like a brioche than a typical flaky croissant. Go here if you want a quick sandwich for lunch to take to the beach.
Padaria Central (Lagos) - The best bakery in Lagos to get your daily fix of pasteis de nata! Cash only.
The Green Room (Lagos) - Casual Mexican food. Cash only. So so yummy! Great vibes - we loved this place for a low-key dinner.
Scartuccio (Lagos) - Yummy pizza & pasta, popular lunch and dinner spot in the middle of Lagos.
Pizzeria Casavostra (Amancil) - a perfect place to stop and take a break with some pizza and pasta when traveling from Faro to Lagos
What to See & Do
Porto
Livraria Lello - stop by this art nouveau style book store built in 1906. It was said to be the inspiration for JK Rowlings for some scenes in Harry Potter. It is very impressive & well worth the visit. Note, you have to buy a ticket for a small fee to get in, but the cost goes towards any book you purchase.
Visit the churches in Porto - Torre dos Clerigos - Climb the spiral staircase of this baroque bell tower for a fantastic view of Porto. Igreja do Carmo - A stunning baroque church you can go inside and explore. Just the tiled facade is neat to see. Igreja Paroquial de Santo Ildefonso - Elegant 18th century church with a beautiful blue and white tiled facade. Chapel of Souls (Capela das Almas) - Another church with the Blue & white tiled exterior. A fun street to walk down. Igreja de Santa Clara - 15th century catholic church covered with gold interiors. Igreja Monumento de Sao Francisco - 14th century Franciscan church with baroque and gold interiors. Porto is an easy city to just walk and enjoy the charm - you don’t have to have a packed itinerary, just enjoy it!
Walk Cais da Ribeira - a lovely walk along the river with restaurants and colorful houses.
Take a river cruise - see the city from the water, highly recommended activity! There are lots of tour companies that do this - book a private sailboat or a larger cruise boat.
Take a wine tour - One of the most popular things people do in Porto is see how they make Port wine. There are many wineries, mostly on the south side of the bridge.
Lisbon
Day trip to Sintra - One of my favorite things we did in Portugal was take a trip to Sintra. This small town, that is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site, used to be where the royals would spend their vacations, just far enough out of the city, close to the coast. You can explore castles, ruins, gardens and the royal palace, Pena Palace. Pena Palace is incredible and worth the visit alone. We booked a private tour through Trip Advisor and had the best time! You can also take the train and bus out to Sintra, but we wanted it to be as convenient and easy as possible with a 9 month old baby. Our driver picked us up from our airbnb, drove us to Sintra and walked us through all the sights. Our tour guide was SO knowledgable and made the trip more valuable. She let us go at our own pace, and when we wanted to make a stop on the coast, she happily obliged. Even showed us a beach she used to take her kids to. She brought us to a local restaurant for lunch and introduced us to new foods. Be sure to try the traditional pastry that originates from Sintra - Queijada! The tour is linked here if anyone wants to do this exact tour. Here are the spots we went to in Sintra & the ones I recommend:
Pena Palace - the crown jewel of Sintra
Castelo dos Mouros - be prepared to hike up stairs
Quinta da Regaleira & Initiation Well - can’t miss this!
Town of Sintra - stop at Dona Estefania for pastries (Travesseiros, queijada, pasteis de nata and croissant - you have to get one of each!)
Park and Palace of Monserrate - Very ornate mansion!
Cabo da Roca - Quick pit stop along the coast for incredible views
Town of Cascais - stop at this fun beach town if you have time on the return trip to Lisbon
Day trip to Ericeira - Located close to Sintra, Ericeira is one of the most popular surf spots in Portugal and Europe, only an hour from Lisbon. The main downtown is full of healthy eats, yoga studios, coffee shops and just all around good vibes. Ericeira is part of the World Surfing Reserves, with around 20 surf breaks alone.
Take tram 28 around the city - known as the tourist tram because it’s a good way to see the city and it stops near many tourist attractions. It starts near Alfama and takes you through Lisbon.
Belem Tower - Medieval tower on the water. While here, stop at Jeronimos Monastery, Padrao dos Descobrimentos, Miolo for brunch, Pasteis de Belem for a treat!
Arco da Rua Augusta - Ornate arch in the middle of the city with a big lively square. Walk down this street for fun shops and eats.
See the city from above - Lisbon has lots of terraces for views of the city. My favorites for sunset were Miradouro da Graca and Miradouro de Santa Luzia.
Lisbon Cathedral - Se’ de Lisboa. Stunning church you can go inside and explore.
The Algarve
Check out the beautiful views at Ponta da Piedade in Lagos.
Shop for Pottery - Portugal is known for their pottery. Much of the stuff you find in stores in the US is made is Portugal. Check out Ceramica Paraiso, located a short drive out of Lagos, for pottery. I also likes Olaria Nova in Lagos, a small family-run ceramics studio.
Go to the beach in Lagos - There are so many beautiful beaches in the Algarve. Some of my favorites are in Lagos: Praia do Camilo, Praia de Dona Ana and Estudantes.
Explore Sagres - not far from Lagos, Sagres is the farthest south western point of Portugal. You can go see the light house, and check out the tiny little surf town. Take a surf lesson, or rent a board for the day. Praia do Amado in Sagres is a huge beach with red rocks and rolling green hills. Can be very windy, so it is a great beach for surfing.
Kayak to the cave and beaches in Benagil. You can also join a boat tour. The cave is only accessible by water, but the main beach in Benagil is also very nice and worth a stop.
Take a drive to Marinha Beach, the rock formations and cliffs are stunning, one of my favorite beaches in this area!
Visit Albufeira - a great town to spend a day exploring beaches and a pretty town