Travel Guide | The Dolomites
My parents surprised me and my siblings with airfare and accommodations for a trip to the Netherlands for a big family reunion! Ryan and I decided to go a bit early and go to Austria and Italy before we headed over to the Netherlands to meet up with the rest of my family. To say we were blown away by Austria and the Dolomites would be an understatement. One of my favorite places to date. We love countries where we can eat comfort food, be in the mountains and get around by train easily to maximize our trip. The Dolomites is just that. We were in this region for just a week and saw SO much. I am already planning a trip back, because there was too much we didn’t get to! You could spend days hiking here, and not even make a dent.
Our itinerary:
Flew into Munich, Germany —> Trained to Salzburg, Austria | Spent 1 days in Salzburg | Day trip to Hallstatt | —-> Trained to Innsbruck | Spent 1 day in Innsbruck —> Trained to Bolzano | Rented a car and drove to Ortisei | Spent 4 days in the Italian Dolomites* | —> Drove back to Bolzano —> Trained to Venice, Italy | Spent 2 days in Venice | —> Flew to Amsterdam
*I recommend spending at least 4-5 days in the Dolomites. You can start in Italy, or start in Austria, like we did. We didn’t rent a car until we got closer to the Dolomites. Both Italy and Austria are easily explored by train, but the Dolomites are best in a car. We rented a car in Bolzano. Alternatively, you could rent a car in Venice, Verona or Milan and drive up to the alps.
Where to Stay
The Dolomites are home to some of the most luxurious 5 star ski resorts in the world. The hospitality in the Dolomites is unbeatable! That, and the breakfast!! Nothing like a european mountain breakfast of breads, pastries, cheese and meats. I suggest staying a couple nights in Eastern Dolomites (near Cortina D’Ampezzo) and a couple nights in the Western Dolomites (Ortisei or Val Gardena), in order to maximize your days. These are some of my favorite accommodations:
ADLER Lodge ALPE (Alpe Di Suisi/Western Dolomites) - The views!! A stay for any season. The lodge is cozy and woodsy, but modern. Located on top of the mountain, the views are unbeatable. The infinity pool is stunning. I can’t imagine a better place to stay - worth the money. It’s quiet and secluded, and you have hiking right outside your hotel.
ADLER Spa Resort Dolomiti (Ortisei/Western Dolomites) - You can’t go wrong with the Adler hotels. This hotel is perfect if you want to stay in town, next to shops and restaurants. Ski in/ski out - perfect for a winter getaway. Amazing pools, saunas and spa services. The kids play area is adorable - one of my favorite hotels for families with little kids.
Savoy Dolomites (Selva di Val Gardena/Western Dolomites) - I love this location, it’s central to lots of adventures. This hotel is so luxurious, and great for those who want to spend time relaxing at a spa/resort environment. Ski in/out access.
Hotel Portillo Dolomites 1966’ (Selva di Val Gardena/Western Dolomites) - Very affordable for the quality of stay. We stayed here for a few nights and can not say enough good things. The multiple pools and saunas was a highlight. I looked forward to breakfast every morning, and the turn down service in the evening.
Grand Hotel Savoia (Cortina D’Ampezzo/Eastern Dolomites) - So refined and chic, I love the warm and neutral, but contemporary design of the hotel. Located right in town, very walkable.
Camina Suite & Spa (Cortina D’Ampezzo/Eastern Dolomites) - A newer hotel. Casual and woodsy. I love the interior design style - so simple and perfect.
Hotel Dolomiti Lodge Alvera (Cortina D’Ampezzo/Eastern Dolomites) - Just outside of town, great spot to stay when visiting the sites in Eastern Dolomites. Awesome pool & restaurant.
Food
Baita Sofie Hutte (Ortisei) - It doesn’t get much better than this. The food, the view, the fresh air. You have to go up the lift to Seceda and stop here for food after hiking around.
Mauriz Keller (Ortisei) - we went back here multiple times because the food was so good! Very traditional south tyrol region food. Pasta, seafood, cured meats.
Baita Resch (Cortina d’Ampezzo)- high quality mountain dishes with mountain views! Family restaurant with traditional food.
El Camineto (Cortina d’Ampezzo) - Italian food right at the base of the mountain, ideal for lunch with a view.
Rifugio Edelweiss (Colfosco) - charming ski lodge on the slopes with delicious food!
Foods to try in the Dolomites:
kaiserschmarrn (YUM! shredded pancake)
apfelstrudel (apple strudel)
speck (cured meat)
spaetzle (German egg noodle)
knodel (dumpling with different fillings)
Tiroler Grostl (potato and egg hash)
What to See & Do
Austrian Alps:
Visit Innsbruck - even just passing through for a day or two, this town is charming & has so much to do! One of my favorite Austrian towns we stopped at. Take the Nordkette cable car to the top of Innsbruck, Hafelekar, and hike around. There are some insane hikes just right above the town, so easily accessed. Go see the colorful houses on the river, and shop around the town square.
Eastern Dolomites:
Take the Freccia nel Cielo cable car to Cima Tofana - located in Cortina d’Ampezzo, charming town to have a meal, jaw-dropping views of the Dolomites.
Hike to Tre Cime di Lavarado and the Cadini di Misurina viewpoint - more incredible jagged peaks, some of the most popular areas to explore in the Dolomites
Visit Lago di Braies at sunrise - one of the most beautiful lakes I’ve ever seen! It does get crowded, so I recommend arriving early to get parking. We did this before heading to Lago di Misurina. You can easily do both in a day.
Go to Lago di Misurina - This lake is so picturesque! There are lodges around it, with mountains surrounding it. A must visit!
Hike to Rifugio Frattelli Fonda Savio & eat lunch at the top. I love the short hike up - lots of cows along the trail, and you hear their bells jingling all the way up!
Western Dolomites:
Take the lift up to Seceda - one of my favorite places in the Dolomites! It is popular for good reason. The jagged, sharp pinnacles is breathtaking. Great for all ages and levels - little hiking is required to see this majestic viewpoint. You can take the cable car all the way up to the top. Alternatively, there are hikes in the area if you want the exercise. Eat at the Baita Sofie Hutte when up here.
Explore Alpe di Suisi - Take the Seis to Seiser Alm cable car, hike around up top, pick a restaurant and eat lunch overlooking the valley. Another option is to take the St. Ulrich to Seiser Alm lift. You could spend a whole day up here.
Walk around Chiesa di Santa Maddalena - bring a picnic to enjoy in the field, or just enjoy the walk on the trail.
Hop in the narrow standing cable car at Sassolongo and eating brats and strudel at the hut on top.
Hike around Dantercepies - some of my favorite views and great spot to see wild flowers. Have a drink and a snack at the lodge and soak up the beautiful views.
Via Ferrata - This area is a goldmine of via ferrata routes, and spectacular views. When in the Dolomites, via ferrata! There are a lot of tours you can sign up for - a local guide will provide equipment and show you the ropes.
Rifugios - A Rifugio is a mountain hut. They have rooms to stay in and restaurants. Perfect for backpackers to stop at for a warm bite to eat and good night sleep. Or, if you are like us, you can stop at a rifugio for lunch - no need to be staying there overnight to eat at them. You can drive up to some, hike, or take a lift up. They have traditional food from the Tyrol region, drinks and snacks. Something about eating in the fresh mountain air is pretty magical. We loved hiking up to Rifugio Frattelli Fonda Savio - I loved their kaiserschmarrn! When we return to the Dolomites, I want to plan a hut to hut overnight backpacking trip. Also, look into staying at Talschlusshutte - prime location near Tre Cime. Great spot for families with kids, or solo travelers. Casual dorms and cozy mountain rooms.